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Taking the plunge to dump the power tools.

Hi gang. I have been considering switching to primarily hand tools for a long, long time now. Over the years I have developed some sort of allergy, or maybe just a psychological aversion, to the fine sawdust of power tools. Even with noisy dust collection systems and masks I would still end up flat-out in a migrainal haze after a full Saturday in the shop. Also, I really, really hate flat wood.After years of building average stuff with average, at best, power tools, I am taking the plunge and have been slowly ridding my shop of power tools for my fun projects. I am keeping the corded stuff in storage for when I need to do house repairs though. I have been taking classes in coopering, tinsmithing and very beginning blacksmithing and am retooling the shop for these activities.

It is amazing how much easier it is to keep the shop clean when I don’t go blasting sub-micron sized dust all over the place. And the quiet! My God I can hear the music on the cd player!!

But…….I am having much distress over hauling the table saw to storage. What I want to do is store the table saw and just keep the 14″ band saw for hogging wood into general shape. I use the bandsaw probably 10 to 1 over the table saw. If I ban the table saw, then the last of the large dust collection system goes with it which will open up a great chunk of floor space for my pole lathe, which is crammed against the wall right now. However, abandoning the table saw is like giving up peanut butter.

I need a support group. I need to rip off the band aid (plaster to you fellows I think) and just do it.  I was discussing this on the Bodger’s Ask and Answer forum recently and a fellow named Gavin, owner of Shed Therapy coined the phrase “Power Tool separation Anxiety (PTSA)”.  Not trying to make fun of any of the real conditions out there, but this seemed like a pretty good description. I don’t like the power tools, I want rid of them, but I can’t seem to take them out altogether.

But to my original point. I can attribute the final decision to a few things. This website, Roy Underhill in all his goofy sageness, and Christopher Swartz’s book, The Anarchist’s Tool Chest. Even if you never plan to build any square and flat in your life you should read  this book.

So, should I toss the table saw?

Posted by  |  March 13, 2012 | Categories: Folk Art | Tags: , , , , | 2 Comments »

I tried to make another Piggen.

Now that I have finished up the washtub and a couple buckets, I wanted to see what else I could make from the pile of odds and ends in the cedar pile.  What is left is pretty scrappy and I ended up throwing about half of it in the woodpile for firewood.  The rest made the piggen described here and will hopefully be enough for a small straight sided cask and a small tub. 

The piggen I ended up with is about 8″ in diameter and 6 1/2″ tall without the handle. The sides raised up pretty good this time. But I ran into problems with the crozing. I think I am cutting the groove too wide. Most of the bottoms I have made so far seem to be a little loose in the groove. You can see it in this image:

Before I start the next project I will change the design of my croze to cut a narrower groove and also try not to get the edges of the bottom tapered to thin.  This piggen looks ok from the outside but is definitely only a dry measure. It might hold syrup on a really cold day.

I also ran into a problem cutting the tops of the staves flat so the top is a bit wonky.  This project was a struggle. The thing fought me all the way and the end result shows the conflict I think.  But I’m still a beginner so I look at it as progress. After we take this piggen to a few events and it gets broken in maybe it will not look so forlorn.  Good thing I am not trying to sell this one.

I am looking forward to spring when I can start using cattail flagging to better seal the bottoms of my coopered buckets, piggens and tubs. 

Also, I just received permission from the publisher to start using a few images from Kenneth Kilby’s book The Cooper and His Trade. I am excited to be able to add information and images from this great source to my blog. More about that soon.

Posted by  |  March 1, 2012 | Categories: Coopering | Tags: , , , , , , , , , | Leave A Comment »

Let’s make a coopered washtub.

The other day I finished up the cedar coopered buckets that I had been working on. They actually hold water after a short soak in the sink.  I have read that using dried cattail pith is the preferred leak sealer for coopers. But finding good cattail to use is a bit difficult around here at the end of January.  I will need to gather a crop of it in the spring to store away for future coopering.  It seems that the cattail pith will absorb water and swell in the gap until the wood staves have time to swell and seal tight. 

So anyway. We have been talking about needing a new washtub to use in our colonial camp setup this year.  I decided to try to make a wooden tub similar in size to the navy tubs mentioned in Kenneth Kilby’s book “The Cooper and His Trade.”  My goal was to hit something near 20″ in diameter at the top and 19″ in diameter at the bottom, with a height of 8″.  The book lists the bottom at 18″, but it turns out that a taper of much more than an inch or so is difficult for a beginner to achieve. I found this out in the process of making two buckets with a 2″ difference in top and bottom diameters.

The biggest difference I noticed between making this larger container and a 12″ bucket was that the temporary bands did not hold the staves in a perfectly rigid fashion. The staves were pulled into a slightly oval-shaped when raised up and tightened with the hoops.  This led to a bit of a problem with the bottom.  I ended up putting a thin layer of colored caulking in the croze to help seal up the bottom since it did not fit the slightly out of round slot just right. This is where the cattails will come in handy in the future.

Here are a couple of shots of the staves being fitted to the temporary bands.

wooden coopered wash tub staves

 

hand made coopered tub staves

After a lot of fitting and shaving staves I ended up with a tub that will hold water without soaking.  Granted, that would not be true if I had not cheated a little on the bottom.  But it is a definite improvement over my previous stave fitting attempts.hand-made coopered wooden wash tub

I still need to make handles for the wash tub. A better design would have left two opposing staves taller to have hand holes cut into them. The problem was that I was running out of good cedar and did not have anything long enough to make the handles with.  The plan is to forge some side handles to make carrying the tub easier at events.

My arms are sore from all this coopering work. I think I am going to switch over to some tinware projects for a while so I can heal up.

 

 

Posted by  |  January 31, 2012 | Categories: Coopering, Folk Art, Traditional woodworking | Tags: , , , , , , , , , | 2 Comments »

Building a new shaving horse.

I have been wanting to build a new version of the antique shaving horse that I have for a long time.  I acquired this bench about 10 years ago along with several other barrel making tools.  We think the set came from a cooper’s shop in WV from the early days of the oil industry.

This shaving horse is long, nearly 6 ft, and oak, so it is heavy. It has seen a lot of use and is still completely functional. I have been using if off and on, but have always felt that I should make a replacement for use in my shop. It seems a shame to put more wear and tear on such an unusual bench.

 There are a few features that I would like to point out that make this bench nice to use.  The dumbhead, which is the block at the top of the moving arm, has two different sized notches. On the right is a higher notch that is nice for working wide staves on edge. On the left is a lower notch that is the right width for finishing up staves. The flat area in the center is like that standard dumbhead and is good for working the front and backs of staves and for shaping heads and bottoms.

The long shelf in front of the dumbhead seems to be an idea that did not stick around.  I have not seen a shelf this long on other benches. I assume that since this one is from a barrel shop that the long shelf made it easier to support long staves and I can tell you from experience that being able to support bucket staves for the full length is a nice feature.  The three holes in the end of the shelf are still a mystery.

Another good use for the shelf is for holding buckets in place while you shape the outsides with a spoke shave. I have found that if I put a bucket over the shelf and push up under it with my knees that the bucket stays nice and secure, leaving your hands free to manage the tool.

If you look at the bottom of the arm you can see the block of wood on the far end of the pedal. It has enough weight to release the dumbhead from the work when your foot is removed. I have not put this on my new version yet and the difference is remarkable.

The indentations on either side of the bench allow plenty of room to get your legs in close, which makes the shaving horse much more comfortable to work with that full width benches.

So after much procrastination I finally built a new bench based on the antique. For the most part I stuck to the original dimensions with the exception of the height. My bench is a couple of inches higher off the ground to make in more comfortable for me.  Yellow pine 2x12s were used for most parts, with some scrap poplar and pine filling out the rest.  Overall it came out pretty good. The exception being the mortices for the legs. I botched them up pretty good. Sometime I am going to have to rework the business end legs.

One other change I made was to put a leather pad on the center part of the dumbhead. The cedar that I am currently using to make buckets is very soft, and the dumbhead edge was making pretty big dings in the staves. Now with the pad I get a good grip without crushing the wood.

Initially I was going to make the entire bench with hand tools. There was a discussion a while back on the Bodger’s site about the need to use hand tools more. The point being made was why use power tools to make something so you can make things by hand. This person (I can’t remember the name right off), said we should do it all by hand for the experience.  Anyway, having bought into this theory I started making the main bench by hand and did OK for a while. However, when it came time to rip both sides of the three-foot long shelf with my Diston rip saw, the spirit left me.  This and the real desire to get the damn thing done so I could get back to making a bucket really sapped my dedication to the theory. Out came the band saw.  I’ll try harder next time.

This was a good project. It took the best part of a weekend for me to get it all together and used up the best part of a couple of 8 ft 2×12 yellow pine boards.  If you want to build one I would be glad to send you some dimensions and detail photos.

Posted by  |  January 26, 2012 | Categories: Coopering, Rustic Furniture, Traditional woodworking | Tags: , , , , , , | 1 Comment »

My attempts at coopering a bucket.

After attending the coopering class at Tillers International I became even more interested in learning to make useful coopered containers, such as buckets, tankards, piggens, wash tubs, etc.  There are several types of coopering, but I am concentrating on White Coopering, which is the process of making straight sided water-tight containers. I am having enough trouble with straight sides and have no immediate plans for barrels with curved sides. That is a whole other set of skills.

I am working with western red cedar split rail fencing from the local construction supply store (i.e. Carter Lumber). It is a very nice wood to work with for these buckets. It is mostly straight-grained, soft and splits easier than TV wood (you know, that kind wood they always split on the TV frontier shows, no knots, nearly falls apart on its own..).  The only drawback is that it is very soft and dings up really easy.

Working from the notes and experiences from class I split out the staves and tried to keep them near the right size. It is tough for a beginner because each stave has tapered compound angles on each side, that are shaped on a wooden jointer plane by eye and simple gauge. Here are the staves part way prepared.

I thought I had them reasonably close to the right size for a small naval bucket. Historically this bucket was 12″ in diameter at the top and 10″ in diameter at the bottom. But when I raised the sides of the bucket I had some pretty wicked gaps between staves and the diameter was too small.  It seemed that I had made several of the staves too narrow.  So I made more.

This picture is a good example of what you do not want to see when you look in you bucket after raising. This thing will never hold water this way.

So after a number of redos and adjustments I finally got the staves to line up pretty good and raised it again with the temporary bands so that I could croze the groove in the bottom to hold the bottom in place.

From here it was a good bit of work the get the inside rounded and the  bottom crozed, make the bottom and shave the edges to fit the groove and insert the bottom. I didn’t get any picture of this part.  Once all that was done I could work on rounding the outside with a spokeshave on my shaving horse.  At the end of the weekend I had made it this far with the bucket.  It is far from perfect. But I am hopeful that Chuck was about right when he said after about ten buckets I would be able to make one that did not leak.  So in about 6 more buckets I hope to have a tight bucket.  We will see.

Posted by  |  December 13, 2011 | Categories: Coopering, Traditional woodworking | Tags: , , , , , , | Leave A Comment »

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